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Paradise With an Asterisk
Bikini Atoll, a tiny ring of islands halfway between Hawaii and
Australia, is a world-class diving destination and home to one
of the Pacific's last great fishing grounds. So where are all
the tourists? Welcome to heaven on earth, where the vestiges of
hell lie just below the surface.
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Each fall, in the
heart of the Chihuahuan Desert in West Texas, a little-known
miracle transforms one of America's most iconic—and tragically
dammed—waterways. Revived by diamond-clear spring-fed creeks,
the mighty Pecos River is reborn, creating a 60-mile stretch of
wild and secret Class III whitewater. And did I mention we had
it all to ourselves?
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Conversations with a
Grasshopper
Want to really get away from it all?
Try spending a week completely alone in the most remote corner of Big
Bend Ranch State Park. I did, and other than facing rattlesnakes,
confronting my most primitive fear, and speaking to the occasional
long-legged insect, I've never felt more relaxed in my life.
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Dr. No
Republican
congressman RON PAUL of Surfside says no to PAC contributions.
He says no to pork barrel spending for his district. He says no
to honoring Mother Teresa. And he has no influence in
Washington. So why do the Democrats have no chance of beating
him?
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Men on Horseback
Why does Custer persist? Nearly 134
years after his last stand, a military debacle that cost the
lives of all 210 men under his immediate command, George
Armstrong Custer remains such an iconic figure in the American
pageant... |
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When GM declared
bankruptcy last year and moved all production of large SUVs to a
single plant in Arlington, it looked like the end was near for
the Suburban and its brethren. Instead, they came roaring back
to life.
July 2010
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In an exclusive
excerpt from his new book, Empire of the Summer Moon,
special correspondent S. C. Gwynne re-creates in thrilling
detail the bloody 1871 battle that marked the beginning of the
end for the most fearsome tribe to ever ride the plains and its
mysterious, magnificent chief, Quanah Parker.
May 2010
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Depending on your
point of view, the firing of Mike Leach, Texas Tech’s
controversial football coach, was about the state of football
(the sport has gone soft), concussions (they are a potentially
life-threatening condition), or celebrity meddling (Craig James
was a helicopter dad). But is it possible that Leach has no one
to blame but himself?
April 2010
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Driving the River
Road, in far West Texas; having a drink at the Mansion on Turtle
Creek, in Dallas; fishing for bass in Caddo Lake; eating a
chicken-fried steak in Strawn; searching for a lightning whelk
along the coast; and 58 other things that all Texans must do
before they die.
March 2010
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During his three
terms in office, Houston’s Bill White has been one of the most
popular big-city mayors in America. Now he’s just the latest in
a long line of Texas Democrats trying to win a statewide
election. What makes Mayor Bill think he can break a
fifteen-year losing streak?
December 2009
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And you would be too
if you were an itinerant Rollerblader with a passion for pirates
who’d reinvented the game of college football, brought joy to
Lubbock, beaten UT, and narrowly missed a shot at a national
champi- onship. And what you’d be thinking is, “Gangway!”
September 2009
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How did the
University of Texas build the most successful college sports
program in history? One visionary coach at a time. One
world-class athlete at a time. One state-of-the-art stadium at a
time. And with an ambitious, aggressive business model that’s
the envy of its rivals everywhere.
November 2008
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Eighteen hungry
reviewers. 14,773 miles driven/flown. 341 joints visited.
Countless bites of brisket, sausage, chicken, pork, white bread,
potato salad, and slaw—and vats of sauce—ingested. There are
only fifty slots on our quinquennial list of the best places to
eat barbecue in Texas. Only five of those got high honors. And
only one (you’ll never guess which one in a million years) is
the best of the best.
June 2008
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Jerry Patterson’s
enemies make him out to be the Grinch who sold Christmas
(Mountains, that is). Of course, he couldn’t give a &$%#.
May 2008
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Texas has the
country’s most precise state water plan. So how is it that every
one of our major cities is still on track to run dry in the next
fifty years?
February 2008
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Fifty years after
the mythical trip on the Brazos that was the basis for John
Graves’s classic book, I followed in his wake. Literally.
November 2007
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How has the state’s
most storied ranch managed to survive and thrive in the twenty-
first century? By operating in a way that its founder, Captain
Richard King, would scarcely recognize.
August 2007
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The lovesick antics
of diapered astronaut Lisa Nowak are some combination of funny
and sad but seemingly not revealing of anything larger, until
you realize that her tragic, tabloidy breakdown says everything
you need to know about NASA’s many troubles.
May 2007
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Roundly criticized
for helping to popularize “Swift boat” as a verb, the Houston
homebuilder who is the nation’s largest individual political
donor wants you to know he’s a sweet guy with a soft side. But
don’t expect him to put away his checkbook anytime soon.
April 2007
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Facing an energy
crisis, Texas is on the verge of a solution that will belch
about five billion tons of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere in
the next forty years. Breathe deeply—while you still can.
January 2007
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It’s not just the
stock price. It’s not just the executive exodus. It’s not just
the flaming laptops. It’s not just the lousy customer service.
It’s not just the sagging employee morale. It’s all of these
things—and it’s deadly serious. Inside the sudden decline of the
world’s most powerful computer company.
October 2006
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And Saturday. And
Sunday. The arrival of fall means weekends spent watching
football, up close and on-screen, and yet another opportunity to
love the greatest game on earth for all the usual reasons.
Forty-nine of them, in fact.
September 2006
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Gubernatorial
candidate Chris Bell pushes a rock up a hill.
June 2006
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From kayaking on
Town Lake to mountain biking around Joe Pool Lake, from bass
fishing on Lake Fork to horseback riding on the shores of Lake
Whitney, here are some of our favorite things to do in, on, and
around Texas lakes.
June 2006
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Why did the feds
spend seventeen years pursuing a baseless billion-dollar lawsuit
against Houston financier Charles Hurwitz? To help
environmentalists take away his old-growth California redwoods.
Your tax dollars at work.
April 2006
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Along a
seventeen-mile stretch of Interstate 35 sits a theoretical
dividing line between red-state and blue-state America. In
Austin, the flagship Whole Foods attracts your typical
wine-sipping, tree-hugging, Volvo-driving liberals. In Buda, the
massive Cabela’s is a magnet for beer-guzzling, gun-toting,
flag-waving conservatives. From these consumer preferences,
voting habits are born—but appearances, like tofu dogs and duck
decoys, can be deceiving.
January 2006
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By almost any
measure of performance, including the sheer number of patients
who are crippled and maimed, the medical profession has rarely
seen anyone like Houston orthopedic surgeon Eric Scheffey. So
why did he get to keep his license for so long?
September 2005
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There was a major
don’t-try-this-at-home aspect to my two-day ride on this
primitive and unpredictable river. But as scary as it was, it
was every bit as beautiful.
June 2005
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Fourteen of them,
actually. From kayaking the Colorado and rock climbing along the
Pecos to tubing the Pedernales and birding on the Rio Grande,
here are the most enjoyable and exciting things to do on some of
our favorite Texas waterways.
June 2005
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Yes, I am one of
those parents, the sort who takes his perfectly contented
ten-year-old out of a relaxed neighborhood softball league and
propels her into the hypercompetitive world of youth tournament
sports. But you know what? It’s what Maisie wanted.
April 2005
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